
Bike culture -- not bike consumerism. Rants, raves, tips, tricks and thoughts about cycling from the folks at OlyBikes (and their friends).


Posted via email from OlyBikes
Use headlights in steady mode, not blinking. We have two reasons for this advice. First, we believe that it is much easier for other road/path users (not just motorists) to judge their distance from, and relative closing speed on a steady light source. This is crucial as the relative speed is the sum of the cyclist's and motorist's speeds, which reduces reaction time for the motorist. Also, flashing forward lights are generally reserved for emergency vehicles only, and we would hate to hear that a cyclist was found to be at fault when hit by a careless motorist simply because the cyclist's headlight was flashing, which is not the norm for any non-emergency vehicle.
That said, blinking rear lights are OK. The closing speed of a motorist overtaking a cyclist is reduced by the speed of that cyclist (we always assume the cyclist is travelling with the flow of traffic, as required by law). This gives the motorist more time to perceive the cyclist and avoid them. Also, many states, including Washington, specifically allow rear lights to blink/flash (there is no such allowance for headlights as far as we know).
Steady beam taillights are more than a fine idea for cyclists, for the same reasons of driver perception mentioned above for headlights.
Note, we are not lawyers but think that WA State requirement for rear lights, whether blinking or steady, is that they must be used in additionto a reflector, and not just in place of one. We are not aware of any cyclist being cited for using only a rear light, though. Read the laws here.
Posted via email from OlyBikes
Entry-Level Lights
We often refer to these as "defensive lights." They help make cyclists more visible to other road users, but simply are not bright enough to light up the road (so do not expect them to). They are fairly affordable, portable, lightweight, and make great backup lights for brighter systems, or even loaner-lights for a friend who has stayed past dusk.
Few of these lights are rechargeable, but you can always opt to use rechargeable batteries in them. Indeed, doing so will in short order pay for both the batteries and the charger -- especially if the light has incandescent halogen bulbs!
Last, but not least, defensive lights meet the nearly nationwide requirement that during evening hours, bikes be equipped with a white, steady beam (not flashing!), visible for 500 feet. Fines of $105 for breaking this law are not unheard of. That's more than enough for even a basic "high-end light" -- speaking of which...
High-End Lights
You'll need a pretty bright light to see what you are rolling over. Think about it -- as the beam projects out from your headlight, the great majority of it bounces off the road or trail and keeps travelling away from you a la the phrase -- "angle of incidence = angle of reflection". To really SEE what you are rolling over, enough light must reflect back from the road/trail to your eyes. That's tough considering how shallow the angle of the headlight beam is. Factor in limited reaction time at speed, potential ambient darkness (especially in more rural riding), and it's simply a challenge that not every light is up to.

Several years ago, high-end light systems were solely the domain of incandescent halogen and High Intensity Discharge (HID) lights. Halogens were relatively cheap but somewhat inefficient. HIDs were much brighter, with 500-900 lumens (equivalent to about 45-65 watts of light), but with run-times up to twice as long as the highest-end incandescent lights. Halogen incandescent systems have largely left the market two years ago, forced out by LEDs (see below). Now HIDs are experiencing the same fate.
For years, LEDs were relegated to the low-end light category. They were dim and only put out light in a narrow plane that wasn't very useful to see by. Even the much-touted 1-watt LEDs that are pretty omnipresent today lack the output to allow a rider see where they are going, and those lights routinely cost around $50. When this article was first written, LEDs just didn't "pencil out" against bright halogen lights. Now they do, plus LEDs offer greater durability, smaller batteries and longer burn times. As a result, higher-end incandescent systems are almost completely gone from the market.
Super-high-end LEDs rival any HID system out there. Cygo's Trion 600 light is a perfect example of how LEDs are really maturing as a lighting category. With 600-1200 lumens of light, they cost less, weigh less and are more portable and durable than HID systems (HID bulbs are not very shock resistant and replacement bulbs can run $50 -- ouch!). Such LED systems cost from $300-$700 depending on brightness and feature set. While this might seem like a lot, consider the cost and inconvenience of either crashing solo from unseen debris/poor surface, or worse, from being hit by a car. The medical bill from even a minor trip to the hospital would likely cost more than the nicest LED light available.
Generator-Powered Lights
Battery-powered lights aren't the only option, of course. Dynamo (aka "dyno") light systems supply power via either a frame-mounted-tire-driven generator or a generator contained in the hub of a front wheel (dynohubs). Tire-driven systems are cheaper, but: they make some noise, can be knocked out of alignment (damaging the tire), can slip in wet/snowy conditions, and are usually slightly less efficient than dynohubs. On the other hand, they are less expensive, and are completely efficient when not in use (technically, dynohubs supply some resistance even when not in use). Dynohubs are more efficient in use, never slip, and their silent operation is a small mental boon, as the rider isn't constantly reminded that they are supplying light system power via noise.
Surprisingly, a 3-watt dyno system can supply as much usable light as a 10W battery-based system. How? Quality dyno lights, have high efficiency reflectors and lenses that focus all the light exactly where it will be usable for the cyclist. In contrast, most battery-powered headlights are adapted from the world of indoor halogen lighting. This approach is one of "sheer horsepower" applied inefficiently in order to get enough on the ground to see by.
Generators, particularly dynohubs get a big thumbs-up regarding their dependability. Own one, and you'll never wonder, "Did I bring my light? Is it charged?" If you can pedal, you have light!
Like battery-powered systems, dyno lights have benefited from the evolution of LEDs. The latest ones use multi-watt LEDs that reach full brightness even at low speeds. LED emitters are orders of magnitude more durable than incandescent lights, meaning that you'll never have to replace the emitter (from use or shock). Efficiencies are high enough that many cyclists leave their dynohub LED lights on all the time. There is little downside to it for around town commuting.
Generator systems are usually used to power headlights, but can also power rear lights too. The wiring for a complete system is a bit more complicated and vulnerable. Many folks simply run a standalone battery-powered taillight. If you want a dyno-powered taillight, make sure that the dyno and the headlight can accommodate one (some are not designed to work with taillights).
One of the longstanding downsides of generator systems has been a lack of visibility when the rider stops at traffic lights or stop signs. This too has been overcome by using a "standlight" wherein a capacitor (like a short-term battery) powers either the main light emitter or an auxiliary LED emitter. Standlights usually provide a couple minutes of "defensive-visibility" (allowing other road users to see the cyclist). Standlight circuitry is "in the light", not the generator, so if you want that feature, make sure you are getting a headlight or taillight that has a standlight.
OlyBikes has the following recommendations about lights:
- Head-mounted lights, assuming that their beams are more perpendicular to the ground, may allow more light to reflect back to your eyes (increasing ground-visibility). However, low-mounted lights provide more shadow detail -- a handy perceptual cue in uneven terrain (some riders like fork-mounted lights for that reason). Head-mounted lights have other advantages though. Simply look at a driver on a side street or pulling out of a parking lot and they get your light's full brightness directed at them. You also get hands-free illumination for dealing with mechanical trouble or to better see keyholes at night. Plus, if you have multiple bikes, you'll probably use the same helmet, so no extra light mounts are needed. When you lock up your bike, your light system is already WITH you, so it wont be stolen or be yet another thing you have to carry in your hands at your destination.
The downside to helmet-mounted lights is that the batteries are usually carried in a jersey or jacket pocket and some folks don't like the weight or necessity of wearing a garment with a pocket. A few cyclists use helmet-mounted lights with bike-mounted batteries. If you try that, remember to disconnect the wire before walking away from your bike (ouch + crash = doh)! Perhaps the best helmet-mounted lights are those with internal batteries, like the Cygo Milion 150 or Cygo Milion 200 (the former is compatible with an optional helmet mount, the latter comes with BOTH a bar mount and a helmet mount).- In terms of brightness, you need at least 10 watts of incandescent light or 150 lumens of LED output to begin to see what you are rolling over. That translates into at least $85 for a 12-watt system like the Cygolite Night Rover. There is plenty of reason to get a nicer system like the Cygo Milion 150 or Cygo Milion 200 though. They are lighter-weight, have longer "burn times", fast and smart chargers and batteries that provide more consistent brightness as they discharge.
- Keeping it simple is a good thing. Avoid lights with excessive bells and whistles. Remote switches are more likely to fail (besides being another thing to secure to, and remove from, your bike). Features like fuel gauges seem nifty, but in reality, any competent person can keep track of how long their light has been burning. Plus with fast and smart chargers becoming more common, batteries can be easily "topped-off" before being fully discharged (and by the way, "battery memory" is largely a myth).
- Exceptions to the "Keep it Simple" rule are "fast" and "smart" chargers, and lights with multiple brightness settings. These are worthwhile features. A 10-11 hour recharge time may work well for some, but for busy folks with tight schedules, a fast charger, with 2-5 hour turnaround is more convenient. Smart chargers help protect batteries by shutting off when their job is done. This is an important feature because overcharging batteries easily damages them, resulting in dramatically reduced burn time and/or battery life (often thought to be "battery memory", which it is not). Protect your investment by getting a system with a smart charger (they're usually fast chargers too). Perhaps of lesser import, multiple light levels can be handy for increasing burn time (at the expense of brightness, of course).
The world of bike lights is changing rapidly and for the better. Today's systems are smaller, lighter, brighter and more efficient, while prices are dropping. Expect that in another year or two, that LEDs will have advanced to the point where not only incandescent sytems are gone from the market, but HIDs as well. We're already seeing LED dyno lights that are as bright as HIDs coming out now. With such dramatic gains in technology, the future of bicycle lighting looks quite bright indeed! Joking aside, investing in your safety is the smartest thing you can do -- get a derailer decent enough to do the job, but get the brightest light you can afford.Take a look at the light systems featured on our website.
Hello bicycle enthusiasts and future bicycle enthusiasts,The City of Olympia and the Capital Bicycling Club are holding another round of Urban Cycling workshops to help you set the routine for fall commuting.We are offering a new, condensed version of the original Urban Cycling course, called Urban Cycling Basics. See below for our new Fall schedule. Beginners and experienced riders welcome, recreational and transportation cyclists as well. To register, please contact me, Kerry Tarullo: 753-8575, TTY 753-8270, ktarullo@ci.olympia.wa.us. There is a $5 or $10 class fee, includes materials. Bike in good working order and helmet required.Urban Cycling Basics $5Option 1: Saturday, August 29, 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.Option 2: Saturday, October 3, 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.A shorter version of our Urban Cycling workshop, this class covers just the basics: bicycle traffic laws, negotiating with traffic, lane positioning, tools for the road, flat tire repair, and a group ride around Downtown Olympia.Urban Cycling $10Friday, September 25, 5:15 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. and Saturday, September 26, 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.This class covers everything from how to fit your bike and make adjustments to traffic laws and equipment & tools youll need for your ride. You will learn riding strategies and safety maneuvers and we will end the class with a group ride in Downtown Olympia. Friday evening classroom discussion, Saturday on-bike lesson and group ride.
Posted via email from OlyBikes
Posted via email from OlyBikes
Posted via email from OlyBikes
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Posted via email from OlyBikes
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Posted via email from OlyBikes
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Posted via email from OlyBikes
Posted via email from OlyBikes
Posted via email from OlyBikes
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Posted via email from OlyBikes
Posted via email from OlyBikes
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Part of the reason we ride bikes is because we seek to keep our environmental impact to a minimum. And a reason we SELL bikes is to help others do the same. At OlyBikes, we try to do some basic smart things to reduce waste of all types. That probably brings to mind recycling, which, yes, we do a lot of. Thanks to the friendly folks at a nearby welding shop and auto tire store who let us throw our recycling in with theirs, we are able to cut our waste stream in half. We recycle our paper and cardboard boxes, of course, and have even found artists like Ruby Reusable and businesses such as buyolympia.com that will reuse bubble pack and "packing pillows" that come in shipments of bike parts we order. What garbage we still produce is mostly in the form of ridiculous packaging of some bike products (see below).
The November Editorial page of your paper was a welcome mix of the various ways the bike industry could and should work on environmental issues: reduce impact and enable smart transportation choices.
We are glad that more commute bike models are becoming available from manufacturers. We just hope that bike makers avoid the dreaded "cutesification" that reduces function for the sake of gee-whiz aesthetics. Commute bikes can be plenty of fun, but they are far from toys. Just like for cars, "city miles" beat up bikes more than "highway miles". Proper design and spec is needed to cope with the high demands of urban riding - lots of starts, stops and shifts, in all kinds of weather.
Often, folks who are trying out bike commuting for the first time are not avid cyclists. They may not understand what makes a high quality bike, let alone why one is desirable for riding to and from work, school and on errands. A shop might have only one opportunity to get someone to try bike commuting. If the customer gets an ill-suited, cheap bike that doesn't last, they may give up on bike commuting altogether. It can be challenging to get people to pony up for a bike that's up to the task, but we aren't serving them well if we don't make a real effort. That’s "we" in the big sense, starting with bike manufacturers, but not ending there. All the accessories that allow for safe, secure, practical and comfortable bike commuting need to be up to the task. So, how about it, manufacturers? How about making quality stuff? How about actually using your stuff and seeing how it holds up over time? I bet it would be an eye-opener for many industry folks. We are very picky about what we carry at our shop because it reflects our reputation. Also, as we explain to customers, "we don't sell landfill." Carrying cheap stuff that breaks only wastes resources and money. If bad experiences with inferior products discourage people from bike commuting, then nobody wins. Well, maybe Exxon….
While we're helping folks reduce the environmental impact of their travel, why don't we as an industry also commit to reducing excessive packaging on our products, and make sure that whatever packaging is used, is either recycled, recyclable or both. It's just ridiculous that in this day and age, that any marketing department can't figure out how to communicate everything they need to on recyclable packaging. It’s just a crying shame to generate so much solid waste. What’s it to be folks? The “same old, same old”? Maybe some half-hearted "green-washing"? Or can our industry make a real commitment here to reduce our impact while helping folks to reduce theirs?
We'll save our comments about how 99% of the industry’s products are shipped half-way around the world for a future letter.
arly in the Northwest, where we're located. We'd love to hear suggestions from you, beloved reader. We need lots of eyes searching for those few needles in the industrial haystack. Please leave a comment suggesting your fave bike products that you think we should carry that would meet the somewhat vague description of eco-friendly.







Maybe It’s For Job Security?
Candy Coated Crap
Better Mousetrap
While overhauling a cartridge bearing hubset, I realized that I didn’t have a tool for installing the new cartridges. Wanting to press the new cartridges in (rather than hammer them in), I needed a tool that would to guide along the hub’s axle while only contacting the outer race of the new cartridge (a la Specialized’s cartridge installation tool that looks like a cartridge with a protruding outer race). Lo and behold, the old cartridge slipped perfectly into the backside of a 1” headset locknut, making a unit that would satisfy both criteria. It worked like a dream as the axle locknuts drove the new bearings into the hub shell.
I then wondered what cartridges the other size locknuts might accommodate and made a table with the locknut inner diameters, various common cartridge bearings and their outer diameters, whether a certain locknut will accommodate the bearing. A little machining (of the locknut’s inner diameter) is usually required for a fit, but using an aluminum locknut makes that an easy task. This tool is cheap and will last a long time, so press on and roll smoothly!